[tweetmeme]I‘ve received several responses from designers and fashion writers regarding 20 New Eco Fashion Designers! But Do They Have a Future? Rather than publishing the longer replies as comments, I’ve offered their authors the opportunity to have their thoughts appear as guest articles. The first is from eco designer Gretchen Jones of MothLove.
As one of the designers highlighted in the aforementioned photo essay, and after reading this article, I thought I might comment with the questions I myself pose as a creative using the extremely wasteful fashion industry as my medium.
Eco fabrics: Not so sustainable when you break down the energy necessary. Tencel, bamboo,and any of the cellulose genre — how sustainable is a fiber that is not one? What energies are necessary to produce it? And what about the the breakdown of materials? Real organic fibers — cotton, silks, etc. — have a real thread versus faux threading of overly processed materials.
Taking the uniform project to the next level. Sustainable design: Do the garments have relevancy beyond the date of production? Are we, as designers, really asking the questions about conscious/sustaining designs?
Sustaining our economies. What does domestic production really mean? Are we fostering our own production community within actual geographic communities, or just outsourcing within the states? How connected are we to the production process? Can’t sustainable design mean sustaining proper relations with your sewers in an environment that you can step into on a regular basis?
Aren’t they basically pricing out their independent boutique competition? High markdowns, let alone the charge backs to the brands (which in itself can kill a label), are totally killing the small business end of retail. Independently owned and operated boutiques cannot and — in my opinion – should not be carrying mass marketed and sold products. Its hurts both ends.
Isn’t this the perfect time to be launching a well made, well focused and eco minded label? I believe that the time is now for us to ask this, rather than having the answer dictated by big box corporate retailers and department stores . If our own community refocused its attention on the small, unknown,and highly sought-after unique pieces that make one feel so special, I think we would all gain. We’d gain from being independent, rather than losing from it.
These questions are ones I pose daily as I tread waters towards a successful career. I believe in conscious consumption. I think we need to be more present in the way we purchase. Buying timeless pieces with clean lines and then adding interesting accessories each season is the most sustainable way to dress. And that is how I approach my own designs.
Portland-based designer Gretchen Jones’ ol’ fashioned “hunter & gatherer” approach begs us to reverse and reevaluate our methods of production. The earthy pieces of her design label, MothLove, reject the current state of synthetic production and reflect the traditional methods consumer’s once demanded. Each piece in Jones’ collections are hand crafted. In a Lewis Carroll-esque twist, MothLove is inspired by different caterpillars (accessories) and moths (garments).
{ 3 comments… read them below or add one }
As I write about many of these women frequently on ecosalon, I am constantly amazed by the standards they hold themselves to.
Gretchen is an amazing designer who constantly looks at what she’s doing from all angles and makes herself “greener” in great leaps.
Can these designers be eco-forward and still be full-throttled creative designers?
The answer is yes, yes, and yes again.
Gretchen brings up a great question when she discusses the setbacks of eco-fabrics: What energies go into the production of fabrics? Most consumers are unaware of the massive amounts of energy and water waste that are involved in the production and dyeing of fabrics. Even a supposed “sustainable” fabric such as a organic cotton is responsible for the increased consumption of resources, especially in many developing countries that rely heavily on cotton production. Cotton is one of agriculture’s most water-intensive and pest-sensitive crops. It has been estimated to consume 11% of the world’s pesticides, and its cultivation represents 2.4% of the globe’s arable land, involving 30 million farmers (Kooistra, K.J., et. al. 2006).
What is equally as astonishing is the energy and water waste associated with traditional dyeing techniques. 2.4 Trillion gallons of water are consumed yearly in the dyeing of synthetic textiles, along with enough energy to power 12% of the homes in the U.S. per year!
In my search for textile companies that truly address our globe’s resource needs, I’ve come across AirDye, which claims to use an “eco-friendly” fabric dyeing process. What struck me as unique, is the company’s “eco-friendly” process. By eliminating water usage altogether, AirDye’s product directly addresses the massive amounts of pollution and water usage normally employed by clothing manufacturers at the dyeing stage of clothing production. Here they are featured in the NY Times: http://bit.ly/NeI3W
If anyone knows of similar companies, I would love to find out more information!
Eco-Guy
Gretchen brings up a great question when she discusses the setbacks of eco-fabrics: What energies go into the production of fabrics? Most consumers are unaware of the massive amounts of energy and water waste that are involved in the production and dyeing of fabrics. Even a supposed “sustainable” fabric such as a organic cotton is responsible for the increased consumption of resources, especially in many developing countries that rely heavily on cotton production. Cotton is one of agriculture’s most water-intensive and pest-sensitive crops. It has been estimated to consume 11% of the world’s pesticides, and its cultivation represents 2.4% of the globe’s arable land, involving 30 million farmers (Kooistra, K.J., et. al. 2006).
What is equally as astonishing is the energy and water waste associated with traditional dyeing techniques. 2.4 Trillion gallons of water are consumed yearly in the dyeing of synthetic textiles, along with enough energy to power 12% of the homes in the U.S. per year!
In my search for textile companies that truly address our globe’s resource needs, I’ve come across AirDye, which claims to use an “eco-friendly” fabric dyeing process. What struck me as unique, is the company’s “eco-friendly” process. By eliminating water usage altogether, AirDye’s product directly addresses the massive amounts of pollution and water usage normally employed by clothing manufacturers at the dyeing stage of clothing production. Here they are featured in the NY Times: http://bit.ly/NeI3W
If anyone knows of similar companies, I would love to find out more information!
Eco-Guy